Tapestries...day 3

We came to, as they say, with a shocking auditory assault which only a European hotel phone can provide. My friend was in the lobby. Having never changed time zones, we were only at about 5 in the morning (11 am France time...we had been up until about 5 am), and rather unable to conjure up a decent 'Allo?' on short notice. Within a couple of hours of groggy chatting in the hotel room, we readied ourselves for our day, and went to lunch with Marie-Helene at the cafe next door.

Crepes, salade, kiss kiss (bisous) and into the train for Ely and me to catch six thousand years of history in the remaining six hours of the day. It was four p.m. when we departed from Versailles, and the Cluny Museum and Notre Dame closed at 6 and 7 respectively. Could it be done?

ET OUI! Nothing is impossible to him who believes. As they say in sports, sometimes you can win playing ugly ball. And somewhat ugly it was, (speed walking is not all it's cracked up to be), but in the end we managed to have another profound connection with timeless beauty in the tapestry room at Cluny exploring the visual story of La Dame et la Licorne.  The young girl in the tapestry, with her protectors and favorite animals alongside, manages to learn that the important things in life are not material. 'My only treasure'.....is what she already has.

The simplicity of this revelation enveloped us in rich pastels that are as vivid and glorious now as they were six hundred years ago.

The quiet moment gave way to another speed walk as we descended toward the river to discover Notre Dame as she was finishing her Christmas adornment: a giant live fir tree nearly as tall as the cathedral walls.

The lights were just finished, and a man in a bucket lift was just hanging the final balls or decoration at the top. The pine fragrance engulfed the entire courtyard.











We went in and were privileged to encounter the pipe organ and vocalist celebration as they worshiped. My own prayers went toward loved ones.

 

We concluded our Notre Dame experience with a crepe and cappuccino in the little cafe next door, accompanied by the chimes of the bell tower hailing the holiday season.

Before concluding our evening, we would experience the treasures of the old fort-prison-castle of kings, the Louvre....

The first time I met La Joconde she
was hiding quietly in the deep halls of the ancient edifice that once housed prisoners and kings.  Today we found her quickly, as she had not changed her hiding place, and there were carefully planted ‘clues’ to her location on each corner or staircase leading to her room.  This lady, also called Mona Lisa, was situated peacefully in the middle of her own wall, waiting to be found by my own little girl, just as she waited for me to find her on my first visit thirty years ago.  She is still unique and beautiful in her way, still able to see us no matter where we are in the room. 





My greatest joy today was to observe Elyssa’s excitement as she saw her for the first time, moving about the room to appreciate her different angles.  How happy the lady might have been had she known that she would be sought out by so many over the centuries to come.  Before we ended our visit to the Louvre, we were able to spend time with two other ladies, ancient and yet timeless….one known for her bravery (La Victoire de Samothrace), the other known for her beauty (Venus de Milo). 

Elyssa here: PS:  Whatever happened to Venus’ arms?  And what was she doing before they fell off?  That’s what I want to know.  On another note, we simply could not get past the weirdness of the other commissioned works of art that shared the space with Mona Lisa – especially the one that pictured a certain noble family at the table with Jesus a la the Last Supper…Really? Don’t you think people will notice that your kid playing with the family dog at Jesus’ feet is wearing a poofy gaudy ballgown?  “I have a new horse and carriage…”  “Oh yeah?  Well, I was at the last supper.  See the painting?”

In the next section of ancient antiquities, Ely and I were fascinated that the women in the time of Moses were wearing the kinds of jewelry that we like today.  The people were using the same kinds of kitchen utensils, and made basic furniture in the same design as we would.  A tiny sculpture from that time of a mother and father with their son reminded us that family was important to those people as it is to us today. Ely and I had to eventually force ourselves to leave, constrained only by time and endurance, unlike these timeless relics. We managed to get out before ‘the sweep’ a ritual that used to be followed by the guards each night at closing, where they stand shoulder to shoulder and sweep the rooms of guests.  (Do they still do that?)

We wanted to say goodnight to Paris from our hearts to hers, her lovely river Seine.

Pont Neuf is not really new (Pont Neuf means ‘new bridge’).  It is, in fact, the oldest of the bridges in Paris.  It is the bridge featured in ‘Bourne Identity’, and it so happens, the bridge under which are found our favorite river boats, les Vedettes de Pont Neuf.  We sat bundled up on the top floor, and admired Paris in her Christmas regalia as we floated down the river Seine.  Bonsoir, la plus belle ville du monde.  On te verras demain.  Tomorrow, Versailles!